Knowing how to winterize ice maker in rv units is one of those chores you really don't want to skip, especially if you enjoy having functioning appliances when spring rolls around. I've seen plenty of folks remember to drain their holding tanks and blow out their faucets, only to realize in April that their ice maker's solenoid valve cracked because a tablespoon of water stayed inside and froze. It's a tiny part, but replacing it is a huge pain and an expense you just don't need.
If you're new to the RV lifestyle or you've just upgraded to a rig with a residential-style fridge, you might be wondering why the ice maker needs its own special attention. The reality is that ice makers have dedicated water lines and valves that don't always drain just because you opened the low-point drains. You have to be a bit more intentional to get every last drop of water out.
Why the Ice Maker is Different
Most of your RV's plumbing is pretty straightforward. You open a tap, gravity or pressure does the work, and the water leaves. But the ice maker is "smart"—or at least, it's controlled by a timer and a solenoid. The water line leads to a small electric valve that only opens when the fridge decides it's time to fill the ice tray.
If you just blow out the lines with air or pump in antifreeze without actually "cycling" that valve, you're going to leave a pocket of water trapped right in the most fragile part of the system. When that water turns to ice, it expands, and since plastic doesn't stretch well in sub-zero temps, it snaps. Here's how you can avoid that headache.
Method 1: The Compressed Air Blowout
A lot of RVers prefer using compressed air because it keeps the "pink stuff" (RV antifreeze) out of the ice-making system. Nobody really wants to taste antifreeze in their margaritas next summer, even if it is non-toxic.
Step 1: Drain the Main System
Before you even touch the ice maker, do your standard winterization. Drain your fresh water tank, empty your water heater (make sure it's off and cool first!), and open your low-point drains. Once the bulk of the water is out, close everything back up.
Step 2: Hook Up the Compressor
You'll need a blowout plug that screws into your city water inlet. Hook up your air compressor, but set the pressure to about 30 or 40 PSI. Don't go higher than that, or you might blow a seal or a line inside your walls.
Step 3: Cycle the Ice Maker
This is the part most people miss. With the air pressure active in the lines, you need to tell the ice maker to "call" for water. If you just leave it sitting there, the valve stays closed and the water stays trapped.
There are two ways to do this. You can just leave the fridge on and wait for it to try to make ice. Eventually, it'll click, the valve will open, and instead of water filling the tray, you'll hear air hissing out. Let it do this two or three times to be sure. Alternatively, some models have a "test" button on the bottom of the ice maker unit. If you can reach it, hold that button down to force a cycle. It's much faster than waiting.
Method 2: The RV Antifreeze Method
If you live somewhere where the temperatures stay well below zero for months, you might feel safer using antifreeze. It's a bit more work to clean out later, but it's very effective.
Step 1: Remove the Water Filter
This is a big one. Don't forget to take the water filter out of the fridge. If you run antifreeze through a charcoal filter, the filter will catch the chemicals, get clogged, and be completely ruined. Most modern fridges come with a "bypass plug" you can put in the filter's place so the water (or antifreeze) can still flow.
Step 2: Pump the Pink Stuff
Use your RV's water pump to pull antifreeze from the jug and into the lines. You'll want to run your sinks and shower until they're pink, but then you have to get it into the ice maker.
Step 3: Wait for Pink Ice
Just like with the air method, you have to cycle the ice maker. You'll need to leave the fridge on and let it run until it starts producing pink slush or pink ice cubes. Once you see that color in the tray, you know the antifreeze has made it through the solenoid and into the final stretch of the line. At that point, you can shut the fridge off and call it a day.
Don't Forget the Exterior Water Line
If your fridge is in a slide-out, there's usually a water line running underneath the rig or behind an exterior access panel. These lines are incredibly vulnerable because they're exposed to the wind and the cold more than the pipes tucked inside your cabinets.
Take a look behind the lower fridge vent on the outside of your RV. You'll likely see a small plastic line and a brass or plastic valve. While you're winterizing, make sure you don't see any standing water in that line. If you're using the air method, that's where you'll usually hear the air moving through most clearly.
A Few Pro Tips for Success
I've learned a few things the hard way over the years, so here are some tips to make this easier:
- Turn off the ice maker first: While you're draining the main system, turn the ice maker off so it doesn't try to cycle while there's no pressure, which can sometimes stress the motor.
- The "Jumper Wire" Trick: If your ice maker doesn't have a test button, some people use a small piece of insulated wire to jump the "L" and "H" terminals on the ice maker module to force a cycle. Only do this if you're comfortable with electrical components, as you're dealing with live power. If that sounds scary, just stick to the "wait and see" method.
- Dump the first batches: When you de-winterize in the spring, make sure you run the ice maker for at least 24 hours and throw away all the ice it produces. This ensures any leftover air, stale water, or antifreeze is totally gone before you start using it for drinks.
Dealing with Residential Fridges
If you have a big Samsung or Whirlpool residential fridge in your motorhome, the process is largely the same, but these units often have internal reservoirs for chilled water. Make sure you're also running the water dispenser on the door until it's either blowing air or flowing pink. If you skip the door dispenser, that internal tank will freeze and crack, which is a much more expensive fix than a simple valve.
Wrapping Things Up
Learning how to winterize ice maker in rv units isn't exactly the most exciting part of owning an RV, but it's a "future you" favor. There's nothing worse than that first warm weekend of the year, getting all set up at a beautiful campsite, and realizing you have a water leak behind your fridge because of a five-minute task you skipped in November.
Whether you go with the compressed air method or the antifreeze route, the key is consistency. Make sure the filter is out, make sure the valve cycles, and make sure the lines are clear. Once you've done it a couple of times, it'll just become another part of your routine. Stay warm this winter, and here's to a leak-free spring!